Cold and stormy along the Kancamagus Highway, and the freezing rain so aptly illustrated on the subalpine zone sign at one of the pull-outs. |
The weather forecast was not in our favor, though. Our first day was predicted to be full of freezing rain, snow, and high winds. My drive through the mountains on Friday morning was confirming those reports.
Sun over the Kancamagus, and Charlotte and I at the trailhead, ready to go! |
But then, just after crossing the Kancamagus Pass, I was greeted by blue skies and sunlight! Charlotte and I jumped for joy when we met up, not only because we were going hiking, but also because if this sun was a good omen!
We started out on the Champney Falls trail, which did indeed delight us with three lovely waterfalls. If only it hadn't been almost freezing, there would have been some awesome swimming holes along this trail.
The trail climbed steadily up, rewarding us with some magnificent views along the way:
We're planning on staying at Jim Liberty Cabin, a small wooden hut tied down to the base of Chocorua with thick steel chains. But first, we must summit Chocorua and brave the gale-force winds that we kept hearing reports about from hikers passing us on their way down.
Yup, that's where we're heading: the bare, rocky summit of Mt. Chocorua. |
The wind on the summit truly was amazing. We could barely stand up straight! But the view was quite ethereal because of the clouds, which seemed so close overhead I felt I could touch them, yet beyond you could see the sun streaming through.
That night, Charlotte and I huddled together on a single bunk in the cabin, while we could hear wind lashing outside. Charlotte's thermometer read about 25 degrees the next morning and outside the ground was dusted with snow and ice. It was certainly a cold night, despite the fact that there were 14 bodies squeezed into that little cabin (boy scouts, etc). Incidentally, these are the last people we'll see for the next 30 hours.
Still, despite the lack of sleep, I think we look pretty chirpy in the morning, ready for continuation of our journey. Here you can see our cabin, and Mt. Chocorua behind us.
Our trail was now heading straight down into the valley, but the freezing temperatures and ice on the trail made the going much more challenging:
Then, once we get down into the valley, all excited to have made it down, we realize we just have to go straight back up the next mountain.
And look how far we've come! That's Mt. Chocorua behind Charlotte! |
We decide it would be best to set up camp down in the next valley - so that we'll be slightly warmer and more protected from the elements. So, we find a nice little spot near Oliverian Brook and begin to set up camp. This is the first time for both us to camp outside a designated camping area or site indicated on a map. And our little site turned out to be perfect for us.
Charlotte set about finding firewood while I set up the tent. With just one match and no fuss whatsoever, Charlotte created a beautiful little fire which kept us warm as we made dinner (chili with beef jerkey!), tea, and hot cocoa.
closeup of the chili, just because it was so good and colorful! Mmm, look at all those veggies and meat! |
Day three: Preparing breakfast by the brook in the morning.
First half of the last day in three shots: 1) We're heading up there! 2) Ok, this is really steep (again!!) 3) So beautiful up here! It was worth the climb.
And finally a view of the King of the Whites, Mt. Washington. Look at all that snow!
Lunch/rest break by the brook
Charlotte is an amazing naturalist, and has a great eye for finding little hidden gems, like the woolly bear caterpillar and the aquatic egg sack on the bottom row. Above you can also see the beaver dam (!!!) we had to cross.
And so ends our wonderful backpacking trip through the Sandwich Range Wilderness. So far, definitely one of my favorite places in the Whites. Laced with streams and gurgling brooks, with many types of scenery and a fairy-like forest, and desperately isolated, this was the perfect scene to kick off another season of wilderness.
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